Zits, pimples, breakouts, whatever you call it, it always seems to pop up when you least expect it! Do not panic, there are common ways to treat acne, and most likely, you are not the only one experiencing it.
Acne is a medical skin condition that is caused by clogged pores and inflammation around hair follicles. It commonly consists of pimples, of which there are several types: whiteheads, blackheads, red bumps, and sometimes even large, deep nodules or cysts.
This condition is mostly caused by sebaceous glands, which are oil glands. Everyone has oil glands but what is unique is how much individually we produce. Other factors that contribute to acne are hormones, menstruation, genetics, bacteria, makeup, and sometimes even diet. Acne is very common and if you are a preteen or teen, you most likely have experienced some acne, or will at some point.
As we grow into young adults and enter into the stages of puberty, our sebaceous glands really start to kick into gear. Oils combined with changing and fluctuating hormones can be the perfect storm for acne. This may present as zits/pimples and bumps above or below the skin on your face, chest, back, neck, and even your shoulders and arms.
If you get a pimple here or there, you may wonder if this is considered acne. Acne is when pimples become recurrent and persistent. People with acne often develop frequent breakouts and usually develop several pimples at a time.
What age should I start a skincare routine?
Just like brushing your teeth and combing your hair, taking care of your skin is good for your health and your self-esteem at any age. When you are younger, taking care of your skin may be just as easy as bathing or showering daily, washing off your face with a cool splash in the sink, and applying moisturizer when your skin is dry. You can also care for your skin at any age by protecting yourself from the sun.
As you enter your preteen and teen years you will notice increased oil production of your skin and may start to see some clogged pores or breakouts. At that time, a good twice-daily skin care routine can be a skin-saver! It only takes a few minutes but taking the time to care for your skin can help prevent lots of skin issues and help you look and feel your best.
Simple Skin Care Routine
A skin care regimen does not have to be complicated. In fact, the simpler the better. The best skin care routine is one that you can stick to on a consistent basis.
In the morning:
Wash your face in the morning. If you’ve washed your face the night before, all you need is a splash of water. If you feel like your skin has already become oily overnight, then wash with a gentle cleanser.
Use an over-the-counter or prescription spot treatment containing ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or antibiotics on any active pimples. If your skin feels dry, apply a non-comedogenic (another term for a product that won’t block your pores) facial moisturizer.
Cleanse/wash your face. Use either a gentle hydrating cleanser or a facial cleanser containing ingredients like low-strength benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. If you have worn makeup that day, remove the makeup first using a cleansing balm or makeup remover, such as micellar water.
Use an over-the-counter or prescription spot treatment containing ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or antibiotics on any active pimples.
If you are acne-prone, apply topical retinol or retinoid over the areas of your face that get acne. This topical treatment helps to soothe the skin at the microscopic level and can both treat and prevent acne. If you are starting a retinoid for the first time, only apply it 2-3 times a week at first and slowly increase it to nightly. Use only a pea-sized amount for the entire face.
You can consider using a gentle exfoliating wash or serum containing ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids or beta-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid or glycolic acid. This can help keep your skin smooth and prevent or treat blackheads. However, do not overdo it. If your skin becomes too dry, the skin barrier can get damaged and acne can worsen. If at any time, your skin feels very dry and flaky, then stop all treatments except for a gentle hydrating cleanser and moisturizer.
Our skin produces oils at different rates so some of us may have dry skin while others have oily skin. Most commonly, our skin is a combo of both. In the “T-zone” of our face, which includes the forehead, nose, central cheeks, and chin, oil production is often high, while skin may appear dry in other areas.
If you have dry skin overall, you may need to utilize more moisturizer or thicker moisturizers, avoid hot showers, and be careful with incorporating too many drying ingredients in a skin care regimen (like retinol). People with dry skin are often more likely to have eczema, which is a type of itchy rash.
On the other hand, if you have more oily skin you may need to cleanse more frequently and avoid pore-clogging skin care ingredients. People with oily skin should look for oil-free and non-comedogenic (non-pore clogging) skin care products because they can have a greater tendency to develop acne.
People with either dry or oily skin can also have sensitive skin, which means that the skin tends to react with redness or inflammation after exposure to various skin products. If you have sensitive skin, it is best to avoid products with fragrances or irritating chemicals. Shop BLOOM’s non-toxic, clean facial products in the BLOOM store.
Dermatologists think of skin types as a description of how likely a person is to get a sunburn. Here is an example ranging from 1-5:
Skin type 1 people burn very easily in the sun. Skin type 5 people tan extremely easily and burn very rarely.
**Lower number skin types have an increased risk of skin cancer and need to be extra cautious with sun protection.
You may also be curious about your skin tone. Skin tone is the color on the surface of your skin and is determined by the amount of melanin (skin pigment) present. Within all of the skin types, people may have cooler or warmer skin tones. Skin color can range from the darkest brown to a light/pale shade.
Cool skin tones: If you can see lots of pink flushing in your skin or your veins appear blue under the surface of your skin, your skin tone is likely cooler.
Warmer skin tones: If your skin has more yellow undertones, with less pink flushing and greenish veins, then you have a warmer skin tone.
Neutral skin tone: You can also have a neutral skin tone, which lies somewhere in the middle.
Types of Acne
First, it can be helpful to try and narrow down what kind of breakouts are happening and some possible contributors to acne to help appropriately treat it.
Whiteheads
Whiteheads form from a buildup of dead skin cells mixing with oils that clog the pores.
Blackheads
Blackheads also form from the buildup of dead skin cells mixing with oils that clog the pores. These differ from whiteheads as the surface appears dark or black.
Papules
Papules are simply pimples that do not form a whitehead or opening. They appear as small red or pink bumps that can be inflamed.
Pustules
Pustules have a white or even yellow-colored head containing pus. These lesions can be painful and sometimes itchy.
Nodules
Nodules are larger and deeper papules that form hard firm bumps on or under the skin. These are frequently painful and can last for weeks to months before they go away.
Combo acne
It is common to have a mixture of all of these acne lesions combined and the best way to treat your unique condition is to see a skin care professional.
Caring for your skin doesn’t have to take up lots of time but does require consistency and daily effort. It’s never too early to start forming good skin hygiene habits and the things you do for your skin now will continue to keep you looking your best for many years to come. We have plenty of tips that won’t take too much time. Here is a list of our dermatologist’s top 12 tips for a great preteen and teen skin care regimen.
Tip #1 – Wash your face!
Never go to bed without cleansing your face, whether or not you wear makeup. Be sure to cleanse the skin morning and night or after working out/playing sports to remove excess oils and bacteria. If you do wear makeup or you are experiencing oily skin, you may want to double cleanse by first, wiping off impurities using micellar water/toner and then utilizing a gentle foaming or hydrating cleanser with warm water to wash the entire face.
Another important factor when treating whiteheads and blackheads is proper exfoliation. You may think that using a scrub with microbeads is helpful, but if this is done too harshly or frequently, it can actually damage the natural skin barrier and worsen acne. Instead of using a physical scrub, go for a chemical exfoliant serum or a wash containing ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids or beta-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid or lactic acid. Use this 1-3 times a week after cleansing. This will ensure the dead surface skin and excess oils are coming off and not building up in the pores. Exfoliation helps to remove buildup. Don’t forget to apply a light layer of an oil-free, non-comedogenic moisturizer after exfoliating.
Pro-tip: Having trouble remembering to wash your face twice a day? Try putting your face wash on top of your toothbrush holder. You almost certainly remember to brush your teeth twice a day, so use that to your advantage!
Tip #2 – Avoid touching your face
Written by Jennifer Choi, M.D.
Avoid touching your face or any other area of your body that is prone to acne.
If you have acne-prone skin, touching your skin can lead to breakouts as it can spread bacteria. Make sure to wash anything that touches the face. This means that hats, masks, glasses, cell phone surfaces, hands, backpacks, and pillowcases require regular washing to prevent the acne-causing build up of oils or bacteria.
Tip #3 – Keep sweat on the court or in the gym
Written by Jennifer Choi, M.D.
Engaging in physical activities like sports and exercise are important parts of staying fit and enjoying life, but without taking a few precautions, your skin can act up.
Always rinse off after getting super sweaty and change sweaty clothes after working out. Sweat that stays on the skin can be a breeding ground for acne-causing bacteria or other irritation.
If you wear any hats, helmets, or gear for your activities, make sure to wash these regularly, or else they can also harbor bacteria and wreak havoc on your skin.
After removing a sweaty hat, rinse your skin or use a moistened facial towel, micellar water, or witch hazel towelette to quickly cleanse on the go.
Tip #4 – Moisturize your skin
Written by Jennifer Choi, M.D.
Yes, even oily skin can benefit from enrichment with moisturizer. Look for non-comedogenic and oil-free lotions and moisturizers to help protect the barrier function of your skin and give relief from inflammation.
Tip #5 – Do not pop your pimples/zits or pick at your skin!
Written by Jennifer Choi, M.D.
It can be very tempting to pick at a new bump on the skin or try to pop and squeeze pimples/zits, but picking and prodding the skin can be traumatizing and even scarring. Popping your pimples can lead to more bacteria, inflammation, and sometimes staining/scarring of the skin. If you have a pimple that is white or yellow at the head and desperately want to pop it, use a warm compress (or after a warm shower) to help open the pores then gently press and roll the area using 2 Q-tips or the sides of your two clean index fingers. Do not poke the skin with your fingertips or nails! If the pimple is not easily expressible using the broadsides of the fingers then it will traumatize the skin if you try to force it. Ideally, it is best to avoid touching blemishes altogether. Next time you are tempted to pick, try using a pimple patch containing hydrocolloid, combined with a topical spot treatment such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, to spot treat your zit.
Tip #6 – Be consistent with acne treatments
Written by Jennifer Choi, M.D.
Almost all adolescents experience acne at some point. If you begin to notice clogged pores, blackheads, whiteheads, or deeper zits, the best thing you can do is begin a skin care regimen as soon as possible and stay consistent. If you are using a gentle cleanser twice a day and begin to notice clogged pores, you can start using adapalene gel, which is an over-the-counter acne-fighting retinoid product. Avoid skin dryness by starting slow and using the product every few nights, slowly working up to nightly use. Just a pea-sized amount will be perfect for your entire face, right before bedtime. Salicylic acid washes can be helpful for stubborn acne on the body. Spot treatments and acne patches can be used for larger, more inflammatory pimples.
The BLOOM Store is a good place to find some of the best acne spot treatments, washes, and moisturizers for your skin. Don’t forget — acne treatments can take time to take effect so give each treatment a trial of at least two months to determine if it will work for you. Don’t get discouraged if your skin doesn’t change overnight — with consistency and effort, you will get there!
Tip #7 – Be aware of other notorious pore-cloggers
Written by Jennifer Choi, M.D.
Make sure to wash anything that touches the face. This means that hats, masks, glasses, cell phone surfaces, hands, backpacks, and pillowcases require regular washing to prevent the acne-causing build up of oils or bacteria. Pay attention to whether your acne is worse on one side or area of your face and think about what may be causing it. Are your backpack straps irritating your back acne? Do you typically hold your phone on that side of your face? Or do you rest your chin on your hand during class? Hair products (especially conditioner) can also be secret-pore cloggers. If you are noticing frequent breakouts on the forehead or hairline, look for products that do not contain sulfates or are specially formulated to prevent skin irritation. In the shower, you can wash your face after rinsing out the conditioner to make sure that hair product residue is not left on your skin.
Tip #8 – Practice good skin care & makeup hygiene
Written by Jennifer Choi, M.D.
Most skin care products like cleansers and lotions have a shelf life of about two years. Make sure to wash all makeup brushes regularly and dispose of makeup products that are past their prime. That foundation from a few years ago stuffed in the back of your bathroom drawer could wreak serious havoc on your skin and even cause skin infections. In general, foundation, concealer, highlighters, pencil eyeliner, and primers should be replaced after one year. Liquid eyeliner and mascara are best replaced every three months. As fun as it is to have a makeover party with friends, make sure to sterilize beauty products before sharing them to avoid sharing bacteria too.
Tip #9 – Be gentle with your skin
Written by Jennifer Choi, M.D.
Don’t make the mistake of using harsh scrubs, toners, or exfoliators on your skin. Even with oily skin, a gentle cleanser is all that is needed to wash the surface. Harsh treatments can make acne even worse by increasing inflammation and breaking down the skin’s natural barriers and defenses. Along the same idea, don’t damage your skin with excessive sun exposure, indoor tanning, or sunburns.
Tip #10 – Don’t forget the sunscreen!
Written by Jennifer Choi, M.D.
Using sunscreen or sun-protective clothing daily is probably the most important healthy habit you can start to take care of your skin. When choosing a sunscreen, look for one that offers broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection and is mineral-based (meaning it is made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as the active ingredient). Use at least SPF 30 and remember that you should fill your whole palm for a full-body application. Reapply every two hours when outdoors or even more frequently when you are sweating a lot or doing water activities.
If you have trouble finding sunscreens that work with your skin type or your activities make it difficult to reapply, sun-protective clothing should be your go-to! Choose a hat with a wide brim of at least 3 inches and a built-in UPF of 50 or higher. Sun guard long sleeve sun protection shirts and swimwear can keep you cool and protected. The things you do to protect your skin from the sun will protect you from getting sidelined with a painful burn now and will also prevent wrinkles, premature aging, sun spots, and skin cancer down the road. Don’t forget — all people, regardless of skin color, benefit from sun protection. Even though people with darker skin colors are less likely to get sunburned, it is still important for them to protect their skin from dangerous UV rays.
Tip #11 – Hydration + Nutrition!
Written by Jennifer Choi, M.D.
Remember that truly healthy skin comes from within. Get your glow on from within by hydrating your body every day. Every person needs at least 8 glasses of water per day to stay hydrated and preteens and teens often need even more to keep up with water loss from physical activities. Keep in mind that a healthy diet will also help you look and feel your best. A super-skin-saving diet minimizes saturated fats and high glycemic foods. Dairy and gluten can also trigger acne for some people. Avoid overeating dairy and sugar products — these can spike our hormones, sometimes causing more oils. Stay aware of how your body feels after consuming certain foods and make sure to get enough nutrient-packed fruits and vegetables that your skin needs to repair and renew.
Tip #12 – Get Help if Needed!
Written by Jennifer Choi, M.D.
See a skin care professional to get the most custom routine and treatments for you and to see what works best for you to have clear, smooth skin. An esthetician can recommend a custom skin care routine and perform clarifying skin treatments. A dermatologist can assess the skin and prescribe stronger acne products such as topical creams or even oral antibiotics or other oral medications if needed.
Some people with oily or acne-prone skin benefit from incorporating witch hazel during cleansing. If you are experiencing major acne breakouts, you may want to explore with your dermatologist an acne regimen that incorporates salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide in the cleanser for the face and a salicylic acid wash or a wash that contains benzoyl peroxide for the body. These ingredients are great at fighting acne and cleaning out your pores.
Look out for products marked as non-comedogenic. The best acne-fighting ingredients are salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, and Vitamin A. These acne-fighting ingredients may make you more sensitive to the sun so it is important to wear sunscreen every day to help protect your skin.
If your skin is a combination or oily type then wash twice a day in order to keep the oil down and reduce the concentration of acne-causing bacteria on the skin’s surface. Cleansing with water and a gentle cleanser is always the best way to ensure a healthy skin surface but occasionally if you are super tired from a long day, if you are traveling, or if you are on the go, cleansing wipes can be used to wash the face in a pinch.
Tips if you have Papules & Pustules
If papules and pustules are what you are experiencing, use something like a benzoyl peroxide wash and topical retinol or retinoid. This will help both fight acne-causing bacteria and reduce inflammation.
Acne Scarring
It is normal to get some acne as a preteen or teen but if there are more than ten inflammatory lesions at a time or deep painful nodules, you may need to see a dermatologist for treatment. These deep nodules have the potential to scar, so if you start seeing marks left on your skin from acne, it may be an indication that you need some help taking care of your skin.
Considerations
For people with darker skin types, acne can frequently lead to dark spots called hyperpigmentation after the acne lesion heals. This is not the same as scarring, which is defined by damage to the middle layer of the skin, called the dermis. With hyperpigmentation, there is no actual damage to the skin, but rather an increase in pigment in the superficial layer of the skin. Hyperpigmentation can last for weeks to months. For people with hyperpigmentation, serums containing ingredients like azelaic acid, kojic acid, or vitamin C can be helpful in slowly lightening those areas. These serums can be applied either in the morning or at night before any moisturizers. Do not be dismayed that this darker discoloration is permanent. While they may last for weeks to months, they eventually tend to fade over time. Daily sunscreen use throughout the entire year is crucial in allowing hyperpigmentation to improve.
For people with lighter skin types, acne can lead to persistently red or pink marks after the acne lesion heals. This is referred to as post-inflammatory erythema. This redness also is not permanent and tends to fade over time. In this scenario as well, daily sunscreen use throughout the year is very important.
